From Relaxation to a Rough Road - continued (Chapter 2)

With our trusty Lonely Planet - South America on a Shoestring book, we had just enough info to know what cities we needed to aim for to get to Huaraz and our Andean salvation. Beyond that we were just 2 gringos looking for help. That is what we got from a nice young women grasping what we found out was her first born child. From Trujillo we could take a bus from a company called Movis tours to Huarez. A nice bus, similar to El Dorado. Next a taxi driver found us after a morning sink bath in the bano and offered us a ride to wherever. There are pre-Incan ruins and the oldest known abode complex in the Americas nearby by at Chan Chan, but we were beelining to Huaraz dammit.

We got to Movis and found out that the next and only bus to Huaraz did not depart until 9 en la noche (night). It was 6:30 in the morning right NOW! Crapola. Chan Chan...? We thought maybe until our driver told us we could take ht America bus company to Chimbote, a fishing town 2 hours south (the right direction at least). From there we could catch another bus to Huaraz. Do it. Do it. We were off and arrived at America as the bus´engine started to grumble. For 8 soles ($2.50) each we were on the bus. They played (as they often do on these South American bus rides) a Hollywood action film in espanol of course. I watched a bank robbery with Jason Stathom. He´s a bald guy so maybe that´s why I dug it so much ,)

2 hours later we arrived in the fishy, cebiche (ceviche)-selling village of Chimbote at the bus terminal. We were again helped in teh right direction. This time to the Yungay ticket window where we saw the dry erase board schedule for 8:30 departure to Huaraz. It was 9:15. Damn! But, the nice lady was not concerned and made a call. We could catch up with the bus on the outskirts of town via taxi. Van, Van (Go! Go!). We got a 6 soles tour of the inland streets (carreterra or camino or calle) of Chimbote and found the dingy, blue Yungay bus waiting patiently for us gringos. Our bafgs were trown in teh under compartment (so far we have not had to store our bags on the roof which is nice). We had been sold 2 seats (asientos) together (junto) on the left side of the bus (25 soles) so when the time came during this 9 hour bus ride, we could see the magestic Canon del Pata. I am intrigued.

Stacy is in a wonderful mode this day, despite the continuous travel and lack of comfort. I am most impresed and tell her often. We were off. Heading east at first then ultimately south to Huaraz. I can´t wait for the snow-capped Andes!! The Peruvian Andes are the worlds´s second tallest mountain range by the way. Who knew? The trip took us from the desert-like caost of northern Peru into a rocky canyon zigging and zagging with the powerful Rio Santo River. The paved road ended abruptly and I was jarred awake. We were now on a makeshift dirt and rock path hugging the steep cliffs on one side goign up (arriba) and keeping clear of the downward cliff on the other falling into the Class 5 rapids below (sometimes 100 feet below!). I was constandtly feeling myself leaning the opposite way of the river.

Our bus had a driver, a porter collecting dinero and a mechanic. Thank god! We had to stop 5 times over the course of the 9 hour trip to fix something. Different somethings each time? Who knows? There was evidence of recent rock slides. I kept prodding Stacy with a wry smirk, ¨Hey, look at that massive rock in the middle of the river. How did that get there?¨ From a rock slde no doubt! The heart rate was constantly up on this trip. I was waiting for a rock to impale the roof of hte bus or rock us into teh river. We had a window open nearby just in case. No joke, we discussed our emergency plan! Twice during stops I thanked teh driver and mechanic for their brilliant work!

On and on this went for hours. We finally stopped in a village that lined this dusty road carved into the rock. Burros everywhere and makeshift shanty tiendas (shops) selling water and sugar stuff. The river was muddy and rushing by FAST! We ate a tidy little meal at a nice lady´s restaurante (4 walls and roof with tables and chairs). Seco de pollo, arroz y yuca. We enjoyed a CocaCola and talked with her and a few others. One guy who made and was selling his own helado (ice cream). It was tasty. I had a lot of fun chatting in espanol with our new friends. They seemed happy to talk too. Everyday the buses drive this road back and forth and they are the salvation in teh middle of nowhere. Everyone from our bus was eating and buying something (we were the only gringos for kilometers!) - business had to be pretty good here! The mechanic took the opportunity to fix whatever needed fixing and eventually we wereoff. Adios Amigos!

Despite th erepairs, we had to stop a few times more, precariously close to the cliff´s edge. The intense drive continued and then we hit the fabulous Canon del Pato. WOW!! A tight and incredibly steep and tall canyon with the roaring river below. How did they make this road?! It was carved out of rock. At times with barely a bus width of space. I was waiting for the rear left tire to start sliding down the cliff! here must have been 2 dozen tunnels we went through. Once having to back up 100M so another vehicle could pass. There were waterfalls pouring into the river. The cascadas started thousands of feet up we could see if we craned our necks to the very very top of the mountain. Incredible!! I was constantly leaning to my left across Stacy as she read her book, snapping photo after photo!! There was a dam at one point and then the Canon was past. We still wound our way through farmland and eventually to a real town wit ha paved road. We caught our first glimpse of Snow-capped Andes in the town of Caraz and the mountain that some revere as the most beautifully perfect peaks in the world, Alpamayo. We had to change buses in Yungay. I´m sure the bus was happy! That was an impossible trip for the poor bus!

The rest of the trip was paved. By now it was dark and my energy was sapped. I napped. I awoke to us nearing Huaraz. Stacy said she saw a serious head-on crash. Yikes! We arrived and were excited to walk and stretch our legs despite teh taxi guy and hostal lady trying to get our business. No gracias. We had sent an email to Olaza´s (www.Olazas.com) B&B from Piura (seems like a month ago) hopeful for a place to stay but who knows? It turned out they had a room and it was heavenly! I new establishment with large room with private bath and window. Delish!! There is a rooftop terrace, lounge with fireplace, free brekky. Our sense of accomplishment and relief was huge. High Fives all around! 48 hours of travel and we´d made it to Huaraz, surrounded by snowy peaks! Oh thank god. I was so happy - more for Stacy than anything. Also, for myself I suppose so the wife was satisfied.


A Happy Wife is a Happy Life (Oh I hope so!!)!!