Quito, Ecuador

It's not often that I report it's nice to be in a giant city for a few days, but this was an exception. Infrastructure outside of the large cities is minimal so we were thankful to be able to have hot water, access to supermarkets, a dentist and pizza.

Quito is a beautiful colonial city set in a valley in the Andes at about 8,500 feet surrounded by beautiful green mountains. It took our lungs a day or two to get acclimated from sea level. The road from Puerto Quito was a mess from the recent storms and we watched out the window in awe as we circumvented a stretch of road completely washed away from mudslides. I am still not sure how these giant buses make it up alternate muddy roads, but they do.

We spent most of our time in the Centro Historico, a beautiful area of town with old colonial buildings and squares from the 1500s when the Spanish settled. People watching was one of my favorite activities while relaxing in the squares - indigenous ladies with a child or two expertly wrapped on their back with an old sheet selling homemade plantains, or the modern day mestizo on his cell phone walking briskly to a meeting. It was Carnaval, but to my surprise people flock to the small towns (Banos, Tena) and the coast (Esmereldas) to celebrate instead. So maybe that's why I liked the city - it wasn't crowded at all. Although when we arrived on Saturday, we had our packs on our backs walking to our hotel and heard a child yell 'Gringo! Gringo!' I turned around and saw a few kids racing towards us and after I dodged them, they doused Andy with foam, a Carnaval tradition. It was interesting to see the town full of people and commerce on Wednesday. Thousands of people had a inked cross in the middle of their foreheads, a symbol I can only guess is related to Lent.

Quito is extremely dangerous after dark so each night by 6:30pm we were safely inside our guesthouse doors ($8.50 US per person per night by the way). It had internet access (80 cents per hour) and a kitchen, so we shopped and cooked our own meals again and we continue to have happy stomachs.

The last time we visited a dentist was about six months ago in Bangkok, so we decided to get our teeth cleaned here. The place was professional, the price was right at $15 a pop and our dentist loved to talk and spoke only Spanish (like everyone), so we enjoyed an hour long Spanish lesson as well. The most memorable word I learned was 'escoupe' meaning spit. I did plenty of that.

There really isn't that much more to report of our time in Quito. We ate, we slept, we caught up on errands, traded our books and walked all over the city. Yesterday we took a five hour bus ride to the province el Oriente in a city called Tena, the gateway to the Amazon. This weekend we are off on our first tour, a jungle adventure into the Amazon Rainforest to hike and white water raft.

We heard the devastating news today that Dean Dosdall has passed away. Dean was an incredible person who Andy and I have both had the pleasure of working with over the last five years. So Dean, today we celebrate you, your open heart and your kind soul. We cherish the memories and laughter we have shared over the years and we will miss you very, very much.

Saving the Rainforest in Ecuador

Photo Album. On February 19 we celebrated one year of traveling around the world. I can hardly believe that this year has gone by so quickly and we are still hungry for more...well, that's true most of the time anyway. At times, Andy and I go through bouts of aimlessness. What are we doing? Where are we going? How do we get there? When do we stop traveling? Why would we? Why wouldn't we? Imagine your life for a minute without a cell phone or a computer, without a car or a job, without your friends or family. With this dual-edged void in our minds, these questions arise. We talk it though and discover we need purpose. Working on a rainforest reserve to regenerate the native trees was a perfect remedy...for then, anyway.

Our host, Raul, finally arrived to the house after two days there on our own with another volunteer named Annika, a German biology student. It was the first morning of work that my horror story images disappeared from the half a dozen machetes laying around the house. Each of us with a giant machete in hand, we sliced away the invasive vines that inhibit native tree growth in a primary and secondary rainforest. Next, we planted 60 native trees underneath the pockets of sunlight we created. Unfortunately for me, as I was hacking away I must have gotten close to a wasp nest because I received four stings - two on my middle finger, one on my forearm and I batted away the fourth one as it was mid-sting in my bicep. OUCH! Both my finger and forearm were pretty red and swollen and I could hardly bend my finger (see photo album for pics). Thankfully, I am not allergic.

The next day I had the day off from the machete and planted seedlings instead. Between three of us, we planted over 1,000! It´s exciting to see a project like this in action. That afternoon, we learned how to make chocolate from the cacao plants on the property and have been indulging in organic coffee in the mornings from here as well. Raul also taught us how to make palm nut rings.

We have learned so much about the flora and fauna on rainforest hikes with Raul - I have a journal full of drawings. The sounds at night were plentiful. We heard all sorts of frogs, cicadas, geckos, sloths, birds, kikajous...and Andy saw a snake. All kinds of creatures out here. Some great news is monkeys are coming back since the forest has been regenerated in this fashion. Apparently they haven't been seen here in over ten years because of the massive clear cutting.

We have eaten all kinds of organic food from the property: macadamia nuts, sesame seeds, papaya, coffee, chocolate, starfruit, najarilla (a fruit), bananas, plantanes, hearts of palm and lemon basil. My stomach is in heaven since we have been able to cook our own food. You must be wondering what Ecuadorian food is anyway. A lot of rice, chicken, broccoli, plantanes and tomatoes. Plantanes are a staple. They are a type of large, unripe banana. They can be cooked in dozens of different ways - I learned how to make chifles, patacones and bolones. Chifles are very thinly sliced, deep fried, sprinkled with salt and taste like potato chips. Patacones are a thicker, pressed version and bolones are boiled, mixed with butter and salt and then stuffed with cheese. Yum.

Favorite foods we have eaten out are empanadas, tamales and mochiles (yuca root that is made into a soft dough, stuffed with a white cheese and fried). Unlike being in Asia, we stop into a panaderia (bread shop) most days to make a sandwich or have a fresh croissant for a snack. Oh, and there is a fruit here called guanabana that is made into juice and yogurt that is simply delicious. Be sure to check out the photos .

Now, we are in the capital city of Quito. More to come on our experience here later.

Adventures in Ecuador (Puerto Lopez & Puerto Quito)

Buenos tardes mi amigos...

Ecuador. Who knew we would come to this little country on the equator? By now, that is half the fun for Andy and me. Where we go is as random as rolling a dice sometimes. Jaunting over to Puerto Lopez, Ecuador did have some draw, however and it is called Parque Nacional Machalilla. This giant national park is the only one on the coast of Ecuador and covers 20,000 hectares of the sea as well. After another overnight bus ride, we awoke feeling groggy and managed to find our way around potholes, litter and stray dogs to our guesthouse Itapoa on the sea. Raul, the owner, greeted us at the entrance and welcomed us inside the tranquil palm-covered grounds. Unlike everyone else, he spoke fluent English and gave us a few recommendations of what to do.

Since our room wasn't ready, we headed out again to grab some breakfast at a Columbian restaurant that offered yogurt, granola, fruit and real Columbian coffee for breakfast. YES, whole grains and real coffee! Much better than white breads and instant coffee we had in Peru (and some nasty fish, but I won't relive that memory). It's a new success to not feel nauseus after eating, and this was one of those coveted times. We met another couple who had just spent five weeks in Columbia and raved about it. Andy and I didn't have a clue where we were off to next, so hearing about others' adventures is a welcome treat.

Our time in Puerto Lopez was spent in the national park, on the beach and in our hammock reading books. The highlight was an excursion to Isla de la Plata, otherwise known as "the Poor Man's Galapagos" where we went snorkeling and hiking around the island. Blue-footed boobies were the most interesting creature, completely unafraid of humans since, like on the Galapagos, they have no predators. In fact, we were scared of them as father and young squawked and darted towards us in a protective measure.

We spent a good amount of time chatting with our host Raul during breakfast over organic coffee from his rainforest reserve. He described a volunteer opportunity there which is located near the town of Puerto Quito (not listed in Lonely Planet...uh oh!). Our interest was piqued as he described collecting and planting native seeds to regenerate the native rainforest in the area, as well as educate the locals about this important process. We would learn how to make palm nut rings, harvest coffee and cocoa beans for chocolate. We tasted the bitter flavor of 100% pure cocoa - it definitely needs a bit of sugar! Andy had just been talking about how he wanted to volunteer somewhere, so this looks like our next destination. Sold.

The plan was to take an overnight bus to Quito, spend a couple days in the capital city, meet up with Raul then take a four hour bus ride to Puerto Quito. Didn't happen quite as planned. Our bus stopped in Puerto Domingo in the middle of the night and we heard word that the rains have washed out both main roads to Quito. Now what? The driver decided to take us the long way around through Puerto Quito - the town we wanted to end up in ultimately. Good thing Andy woke up at just the right time because he called to the driver to stop the bus when he saw signs mentioning the town. A local asked us where we were headed when we exited the bus and he let us use his phone. Raul answered and said of course, we can go to his house a couple of days early. Miguel, the man who looks after his house, biked down the hill to meet us. Meanwhile, I went shopping for some bread, fruit, milk, vegetables and other food supplies. If you ever find yourself in Ecuador, make sure to look at the date on all goods - so much is outdated on the shelves.

We make it up to the house and it is indeed in the middle of a beautiful Ecuadorian jungle. After dropping our bags in our private room, Miguel showed us around the property, pointing out beautiful orchids, papaya trees, giant butterflies and pineapple fruits. Stupidly, my arms and shoulders were not covered and in less than 10 minutes I had dozens of mosquito bites. Damn it. Good thing we are hopped up on malaria pills. Then, Miguel leaves and Andy and I have this giant house in the jungle to ourselves. We start work the next day. Today, we read and sleep and cook our own meals for the first time in South America. Nausea stays away, hooray.

Our shower dribbles like a strong pee. The screens are rusted and torn. The smell of mildew pilfers down the hall. Grime is caked on the sink and countertops. Mosquitos bite and then bite again. The humidity makes our bodies smell very strange. Certainly, it is times like these that make me yearn for the comforts of home. But then it wouldn't be an adventure, now would it?

We worked in the garden for a few hours this morning. It's a lot like WWOOFing, except we have no host. Raul is supposed to come this afternoon, but without a phone, who knows. It depends on if the road from Quito is repaired. Again, who knows? The expected becomes the unexpected and the uncomfortable remains so.

P.S. Our Spanish is getting better everyday. Not a soul speaks English!

Mancora, Peru - R&R and that damn little Muchacha!!

We made it to the coastal meca of Mancora early last Wednesday after 17 hours of relative ease on Cruz del Sur bus lines. The place is definitely 3rd world we realized as we made our way from the bus stop to our place which we had booked at the Lima aeropuerto, Kimba´s Bungalows. The roads we dusty and shanties lined the main drag, hwy 1, selling lots of shells, food and alcohol. Little motobike chariots were zipping by as were giant semi trucks and buses nonstop.

Patterned after Balinese hidaways, Kimba´s was an oasis for us. A cute upstairs bungalow, hammock and chairs with agorgeous little pool and lots of palm trees. Kimba even had a pet parrot squaking periodically! We spent 5 nights in Mancora soaking in warmth and sun. We ate cheap and just relaxed. Walks on the OK beach away from the swarms of local vacationers were nice in the evenings. We slept in until 930 each day and snuck in for our breakfast just before 10 todos los dias. Our angel from SF and Lima, Carlos arrived the second day we were there and had the room directly underneath us. Too funny! He was a really nice guy and was also here in Peru to relax and get away from the hustle and bustle of Americana for a while.

I mentioned earlier we ate cheap. Evening number 2 found us walking ht ebeach and then up a main dirt road mocked with potholes and puddles of standing water from the recent rain. We saw the board and the little chica advertising 2 courses and a jugo for 5 soles each(1 dollar = 3.2 soles, you do the math!). Andy Bergdahl was IN! And so was the Mrs. We ate tasy ceviche and ric dishes, ordered 2 beers and got out o there for 5 bucks. Crazy. The next night we ended up at the same place with the same cute little muchacha. Only this time, stacy´s stomach was growling back before we left the table. Again, 5 dollars, but th ebonus of this experience was the cheapness of the NEXT day as we we unable to eat much of anything. Stacy´s Montazuma´s Revenge hit early and was copnsiderable. I on the ther hand thought I´d gotten away clear. When Stacy grunted her question to me in the middle of hte night, ¨how are YOU feeling?¨I said my stomach was tight but I think its from the run and stretching I did earlier that evening.

Uh no. Sure enough before daybreak I was bent over the basin ridding my body of the little muchacha´s poison. We both slept until 1pm this day and louned around the pool like slugs toopained to do anything. We both agreed it was nothing near the worst such experience we´d had in our lives but our affirmations about ¨Being Healthy throughut America del Sur¨quickly had to be re-written. Ugg.

We slowly got back to OKsville and by the next day we were eating and I was back exercising. Stacy was not 100 percent bt doing better. To say that we began paying more for food goes without saying. Andy, there are some things that you cannot chince on is hte lesson I learned.

We also met 2 Brazilian sisters, Kate and...(damn we can´t recall). We had lots of convos with Kate and enjoyed 2 dinners with her. She has the traveling bug too! Not that bug, but the good one thta keeps us on the move! Are we going to Brazil she asked and Stacy and I looked at each other...¨Maybe? Is that an invitation?¨ We had a nce group of amigos and amigas going here and happened to meet some Argentinians as well. Pablo helped me with espanol one day in the pool and his sister and friend welcomed us into their Yerba Mate tea circle. We wer thinking of heading north to Ecuador and now we are being invited South to the big countries down there. We´ll see.

On Monday we took yet another overnight bus trip. This one on CIFA, going to Ecuador. We had heard about sketchy night buses and not to go with CIFA. What did we do?? Oh well. It was fine actully. Despite having to get on and off hte bus thrice for various immigation and policia checks we drove through th eheavy rains, into Guayquil. This town is Ecuador´s largest city, but not its capital. that is Quito. We were dropped right on time at 6am at the largest and most impressive bus depot EVER!! It was like a massive socol indoor mall with 3 levels, directories to help and people all over, even at this early hour. Stacy spotted stall number 26 and we were buying our ticket to Puerto Lopez. You know, Puerto Lopez! Ha! Its the closest mainland city to the galapagos and it has Ecuador´s only coastal National Park and we are read for hiking and diving!!!! We were rushed up stairs (escalators actually) and onto the 615 bus. 4 hours for 4 bucks. The rain was pouring, but the angst we had been worried about yesterday had passed. We made teh 2nd bus.

Next Stop, Puerto Lopez!!!

Caught between hello and goodbye

Hola amigos and amigas! I write from the coastal vacation spot of Mancura, Peru. We first arrived in Lima on Tuesday, Feb. 3rd around 5:30 am. Off on the road again. Home, road, home, road, home, road. Which is it going to be!?!?! I am a little confused I must admit. But for now it is the road. Bring it on!

In our attempt to flag a bus or taxi al aeropuerto we met a fellow who was on the hunt as well, but he knew el autobus was not his desire. ¨Be careful,¨he warned Stacy as he walked past her toward the main road outside the confines of the airport. The bus would be cheap if the wife and I found the one with an ¨S¨ but there are so many little buses and equally as many cabbies trying to solicit our business. ¨Geez,¨ our exhausted faces said to each other. Carlos, the man with the words of warning, was looking for someone to split a cab with so I caught up with him and suggested we were his compadres. He flagged an accommodating taxi and for 30 nuevos soles (approx. $9.50 US) we were on our way. C-los happened to be on the same flights from San Francisco and Miami. He was Peruvian but had lived in SF for nearly 18 years. No kidding?¨ I knew both Stacy and I were thinking it, but I voiced it. We were ALMOST in an accident a handful of times, and as Carlos tried to apologize for his countrymen´s driving we laughed and said we´d been to SE Asia. Sorry, but this ain´t nada.

Carlos had the cabbie drop us in Miraflores, a newer part of Lima and told us about a place for great coffee & desayuna. We said adios but knew we´d see him again soon because he told us he was going to travel in the same direction we were headed, to Mancura and to the SAME exact bungalows. I ask, what are the chances, really? Unreal.

Stacy had booked a short 17 hour bus trip (!?!?!) on Cruz del Sur via the magic of the InterWeb a few days ago, so we had 7+ hours to kill here in town. Delicious churros y cafe plus an omelette, know aqui as a tortilla. We were back on chill mode, killing time and catching up on lost journal moments from the past weeks. It was warm and somewhat humid. We decided to rest on the grass in Kennedy Park in central Miraflores. That is until we were shooed off the grass by a nice civil servant just doing his trabajo. We tried the curved benches of a rotunda only meters away on the concrete of the park but soon were told in Spanish by a different guy not to lay on the bench. ¨We just want to take a nap, dude!¨ A restful experience it was not and with the third conversation with the MAN that was basically about Stacy closing her eyes and sleeping, we decided enough was definitely enough and went searching for internet. Ugg.

An hour typing and then some grocery shopping were the precursors to a long hike to our bus terminal. We stopped for some ceviche and cerveza at the Blue Dorado restaurante and headed north along the broad center divider, fully equiped for walkers. Cool, so walking is OK here I guess, just not quiet time. Hundreds of little motorcycle-rickshaws passed by but we figured an hour walk would serve us well if 17 hours of sitting was in store. We fanally made it to Cruz del Sur and asientos (seats) siete y ocho. The air conditioning was strong and the seats kicked back better than our American Airlines ones. Nice. We were off and happy to be able to rest. Hollywood movies with Spanish dubbing and Portuguese sub-titles blared on the TVs, (Ingles is not widespread here, fyi) but we were happy to be on the move to our paradisical beach. Before darkness stole the light from us I could see that the landscape was extremely arid and sandy desert stretched as far as one could see. The coast was off to our left somewhere over a dune. I thought to myself how we would be the perfect bus to hyjack out in the middle of nowhere. No towns, nary another vehicle besides giant dump trucks or semis. Time to put those thoughts to rest. Goodnight.

Luckily, all went smooth and without a single petrol stop (how is that possible by the way?) we arrived in Mancura town safe and sound. The sun is hot here, but not too humid surprisingly. Our whiteness and tendency to burn is magnified by the fact that we started taking our malaria pills this morning. We are sun-sensitive for sure, but with SPF 30 in hand we hope to survive. Beach, a pool, song pajaros(birds)some comida (food) and a book proposal to finish. These are the things that make up our waking hours.

I must admit that as I sit hear in Mancura, Peru on the northwest coast of the country, I feel I am floating in limbo. We have now said goodbye to our loved ones for the third time in 12 months, this includes parents and the dog. We are living our dream but at the same time struggle with aimlessness and purpose. Our hearts agree that this is the time of our lives and we are amidst a great journey, but my mind is still caught up in my current past of logistics and planning. What next? Why? How long? and When? I do not have any of thee answers for my mind but with some good heart to hearts with Stacy feel a lot better about our NOW. She has taught me the benefit of discussion and truth, to one another and to one´s self. I have discussed my feelings with her, written them down for me and embraced the fact that I am going through these emotions, rather than sweep them under the rug. I feel extremely confident that with Stacy by my side all of this anxiety will quickly subside and we will have the experience of a lifetime, together...once again!

Hasta Luego>!!