Friday, February 29, 2008

Auckland & Lake Taupo, New Zealand

Greetings from Lake Taupo, New Zealand! It is a rainy, overcast day today as the New Zealand Ironman Competition is taking over the lake area. These Ironpeople swim 2.4 miles, bike 112 miles then run a marathon!!! From this Internet Cafe, I hear sporadic clapping and a New Zealand accent on the microphone outside making announcements as finishers cross the line. It's funny the things we run across and don't ever expect. We haven't had Internet access for a few days, so I will attempt to catch up some.

It's only 3 hours from Nadi, Fiji to Auckland so the flight went fairly quick and smooth. We certainly did not need to be at the airport two hours before; however, time allowed us to buy a few souvenirs and have breakfast. Good friends of my Mom, Paul & Diane, picked us up at the airport early afternoon on Thursday and greeted us with warm hugs. We had only seen photos of one another so we weren't quite sure who to look for! Luckily I am a spitting image of my Mom so I wasn't too hard to spot.

We drove a few hours through beautiful NZ countryside to the south to their cottage in a village named Arapuni outside of Cambridge. This tiny little town only has about 30 - 40 homes and solely has the sounds of the soft breeze in the trees, crickets, birds and children's laughter. Talk about tranquil. We enjoyed a couple bottles of wine and good conversation on the patio in the remarkably fresh air as the evening passed into night. Afterward, a delectable dinner of roasted lamb with gravy and mint sauce, boiled potatoes, a load of fresh vegetables (many of which were from their garden), and fresh fruit and cream for dessert. We were vegetable deprived in Fiji so this wonderful meal certainly hit the spot! Not to mention Diane's wonderful cooking. She and Paul used to run a Bed & Breakfast (how my Mom met them years ago) and I can see why, as they are superb hosts with amazing attention to detail. We went for a walk after dinner and I have never seen so many brilliant stars in my life. Orion was practically hidden in the Milky Way! This is heaven for me.

After sleeping 12 peaceful hours, we awoke to birds singing and breakfast on the table. Andy tried the Vegemite, but after smelling it then seeing his reaction I just couldn't bring myself to do it. It's like pure salt in a dark brown spread. We then left for Lake Taupo, about an hour's drive to the south. Paul and Di have a friend who has a lake house here so here we are for a couple of days. Yesterday was sunny and beautiful as we saw the unbelievably turquoise blue Huka Falls and went for a 20 km (about 12 mile) walk along the lakefront. Andy was wearing jandals (the NZ word for flip flops) as we thought we'd go for a quick stroll, then it was 4 hours later - ouch!

Although I am slightly bummed it is raining I am pleased that the countryside is getting this much needed water. It is late summer here and it's the brownest it's been in 45 years, Paul said. Apparently NZ is suffering from quite a drought so we haven't seen the bright green rolling hills that the country is famous for. At least not yet - there is much more of the country to see. The climate sure is changing around the world, isn't it? Even in Fiji when we went snorkeling, although we saw loads of brilliant fish and various coral, much of it was shaved down and dead grey coral was prevalent. So sad. Thankfully, a Coral Rehabilitation Project is underway using funds from a $120 million Japanese grant. I am surprised and pleased to see the level of awareness in the form of public service announcements about saving water and energy in both Fiji and NZ so far. In fact, toilets have two flushers - one that uses less water for Number 1, and a second, stronger flush for Number 2. To think if these sorts of energy saving toilets were in the United States? Toilets made before 1982 use 5-7 gallons PER FLUSH. Toilets since then use 1.6 gallons, which is still an exorbitant amount of waste. I think the states could use a bit more forward thinking on that front. It will be interesting to see the Composting Toilets on some of the WWOOFing Farms where the "worms do their work."

We left our camera cord in Arapuni, so please check back in a few days for some photos. Despite the bit of brown, New Zealand is still incredibly breathtaking so far, and we haven't even hit the South Island yet!

Monday, February 25, 2008

Fijian Culture...A Humbling Experience


Bula! Another cool and stormy afternoon in the rainforest after a long day of warm sunbathing on the beach with a good book.

Yesterday afternoon, we took a walk with one of the employees here, Ben, to the small village to the east called Namatakula. In Fiji, it is considered rude to wear hats or skirts above the knee so upon entering the village we had to look the part. Fiji is made up of hundreds of villages, all with important and distinct roles with clear social norms. Each has a Chief, a Speaker and six other leadership roles in which they conduct town meetings, solve problems and run events. Ben's father is the current chief of Namatakula and he has five sisters, which means he is Chief-to-be! Recently in a town meeting, it was decided Ben can become chief as soon as he finds a wife. He is able to choose a wife from another village which makes him quite happy, as he says he has no prospects yet. I asked Ben what sorts of problems his village faces: he says sometimes, villagers try and bring alcohol in which is illegal. They way they solve problems between folks is to bring them to the town meeting and let them "argue it out" while the Chief sits patiently and listens. Open communication, Ben says, is the way his village stays peaceful. There are no secrets.

Ben invited us into his home and showed us the local church. It was incredibly humbling to be in this small, poor town with no commerce of any kind. They grown their own fruits and vegetables and their dogs hunt wild pigs in the jungle. There is no furniture in their shanty-like homes, chickens and dogs run freely and smoking pits for cooking food were all around. As we walked past, the villagers young and old came out to their porches, looked us right in the eye, smiled, waved and shouted "Bula!" as we smiled and waved back with another loud greeting in return. I received such a feeling of warmth and pure contentment from these villagers who have a tiny fraction of what you or I have. This proves to me that happiness does not come from within things, but from within oneself.

Last night we stayed up later than usual and played cards and laughed with other travelers. This afternoon we both had a very inexpensive Fijian massage with pure coconut oil (that smelled and felt like heaven) in an open air cabana. We enjoyed the sound of our masseuses bantering back and forth in Fijian while tropical birds sang their ubiquitous songs. I haven't felt this relaxed and at peace in years! (by Stacy)

Saturday, February 23, 2008

Rainy Day...

It rained all day today! I woke up early, had breakfast, then went for a nice kayak in the pouring rain. The break is over 200 meters out so the water in front is nice and smooth despite the downpour. As soon as it got somewhat chilly I would row faster to keep warm and it worked. There is something quite refreshing about the warm sea splashing up against me as the cooler rainwater crashed down on top.

Gosh it poured today. So we spent much of the late morning having VERY strong coffee and reading our books in the lounge. I was assured it wasn't espresso to my great surprise. Andy then taught a couple of Germans how to play Rummy 500 and I made a couple necklaces out of coconut shells. It's actually quite simple, just a lot of sanding and I had tired thumbs t show for it. I don't know how some people did that all day. Of course there were others there as well so we told of our hometowns, where we have been, and where off to next. Seems a lot of folks are from England and I just love hearing their accents and what they "fancy."

I just got back from playing sand volleyball and Andy is still out there - I realize how much I have missed team sports! Yesterday, Andy played rugby and I can tell he is enjoying playing as much as I am. Sometimes I look up and marvel that I don't have a single damn thing I have to do. No to-do list, no errands, no car, no phone...it's really quite an experience and it's only just begun. Make sure to check out the photos from the past few days to the right and we'll catch you later.

Friday, February 22, 2008

Day 3 in Fiji


It has been cloudy and sprinkling all day which is a welcome break from the intense sun. Yesterday, after a breakfast of fruit (papaya and banana), muesli, toast, coffee and juice, we took a hearty and somewhat advanced 3+ hour jungle hike to a beautiful waterfall into the mountains to the north. I was surprised to not see many animals besides the occasional caterpillar, butterfly and spider, as the jungle feels much like the one in the biologically rich Osa Peninsula in Costa Rica. The river, plants and Sedona-like red mud were enough to delight the senses anyway. A group of 15 of us from the resort went together with our local guide from the next town. He is full of knowledge about the local plants - so much of it is used in daily life for things such as making tea, weaving mats, creating roofs and of course to eat. The air is so amazingly fresh and clean, it makes my skin and hair constantly feel as though I have just returned from the spa! (Mom and Dad, you will be most happy to know that I have constantly been wearing SPF 30 with not even close to a burn.) Before dinner last night, I practiced yoga on the beach feeling very Zen-like, with the soft roar of the waves and the feeling of gentle breeze on my skin like soft down pillows. Denaka (thank you), Fiji. This experience is certainly is opening a spiritual portal within.

It is a trip to constantly be around other long term travelers. It is the norm around here, unlike the feeling while in the States that we were somewhat of the "odd couple" choosing to make this trek. Everyone is so friendly and happy to share their stories about other places they have traveled around the world. Most just graduated from college or left their job and are on sabbatical - yes, they get their jobs back after 6 - 12 months on the road (true for Aussies and Europeans). We already have some great tips for NZ and Australia and some folks to cross paths with again.

Today I awoke and read my book in a hammock and went for a nice swim in the ocean after breakfast. A jellyfish stung my upper lip of all places - I felt a fiery, intense burn as I ran to the shore for some ice. I could feel the redness and puffiness increasing by the second! Luckily and to my great surprise, it dissipated after an hour and I can't even see or hardly feel it now. This afternoon, we learned how to weave a basket, hat, star, grasshopper, fish and bow from palm leaves. Mali, the local instructor, was laughing as we foreigners tried our hands at these complicated weaves. His laugh was so charming and contagious that the rest of us couldn't help but giggle beside him. We snacked on a coconut after and played some frisbee.

More photos to come. For now, time to read in a hammock, yes, again!

Wednesday, February 20, 2008

We have landed safely in Fiji...


Bula from Fiji! We are safe and sound here at the Beach House Backpacker Resort (check the links to the right to see it). After 8 hours of sleep on the red eye, we are both feeling good to go. All day it has felt later than it is - we had 3 breakfasts today. It seemed like the morning would not pass but we were not complaining that's for sure! We arrived before dawn in Nadi and waited until 7am to take a 2 1/2 hour bus ride to this unbelievable backpacker's paradise. We have a private "Garden Room" that simply has a bed, dresser and hooks. {Stacy} Set on the southern coastline, this place rocks! Packed with overgrown foliage as far as one can see, the place is just what the Dr ordered. A hot humid day relaxing on the beach, in the water and in the shade of a large palm has quickly turned into a tropical rainstorm, wow its coming down now!! It must be raining cats and dogs because low and behold there is a yellow lab named Lucy and her black Labrador boy toy living on the property. All we need now is a chocol---, well, that is a whole nother heartache. But truly Emma is in great hands and we are feeling great about that. I can say that frolicking in the 2' deep low tide with these 2 as they romp for fish has been fun and medicinal. We have met a number of wonderful foreigners, oh wait, we are now in that grand majority I suppose. The hostel (its hard to call it that though - seems more like a grand resort for sure) is packed with europeans, aussies, and guess what, I think Stacy and I are 2 of 3 or 4 Americanos! Are you shocked!? It appears we have a place to hang our hats in Brisbane when the time comes. It is truly a wonderful cultural experience and its only Day 1! We miss our great family and friends, but please feel good in the fact that we haven't thought too much about you during this initial venture :) . I'm sure those days will come however. {Andy}

More Fijian insights from the Berglons to come...

Tuesday, February 19, 2008

Bon Voyage, America

My mouth and throat are parched but my stomach is full of water and I am still thirsty.  My heart beat a little faster today with my nerves in full force.  Those butterflies in my solar plexus have taunted me all day.  Reassuringly, I think we're just about ready.  It felt good when I tried on my full pack yesterday, my future home.  Emma dog is snoring quietly at my feet (with the occasional stretch) as we savor the moment of our last night in Orange County.  It's actually here.  

You all are about to see this blog for the first time.  Please enjoy living the journey alongside us, experiences that will span the dichotomy between pure joyfulness and pleasure to the inevitable tough times and disappointments.  I wonder if Drew will ever post to this blog or just me? :)  Bon Voyage America!  (by Stacy)

Thursday, February 14, 2008

Happy Valentine's Day!

Alas, this is the last Thursday we will enjoy here at the Glendora pad with life as we know it.  As the days pass, time is spent packing, doing errands and seeing friends and family.  My nerves are kicking in full force now, but quickly the feeling is morphed into pure and utter excitement.  I keep wondering what I will forget in my pack??  Alas, I cannot worry as I am sure New Zealand has just about everything I could need except my tempurpedic pillow and comfy bed.  Our new pillow will be a small stuff sack that you turn fleece side out and fill with clothes.  Christ that better be comfy.  Speaking of sleep, my dreams recently have been joyous, filled with bright colors, laughter and love.  On this Valentine's Day, I send you a giant hug and a smile. (by Stacy)